Ok. I`m in Albaracin. The spanish bouldermekka with tons of red sandstone ready to eat all your skin... no matter if it is your fingertips, handpalm or forearm.
Going back bouldering after some month ropeclimbing fells good. The start was a bit hard. The question after the first days was always: "Power where are you?".
|we both had no plan.|
After 5 days of bouldering I could tick 40 problems from 7A to 7C.
I had no special line in mind before, but when I came to here I had one last wish for my trip. "Is it possible to boulder 8A on this trip?" So I always took a look at 8A boulders. Not really trying hard, but trying to understand the moves and hoping to get motivated to try hard.
One line in knew before was "el varano" an 8A from Toni Lamprecht. Big overhanging prow with big moves. Climb-it-like-you-carry-a-fridge-climbingstyle. Maybe it suits me! The problem is that you need some spotters and some pads to protect the rocks under the line. One day I went there with Moritz, Johannes and Julia. Moritz wanted to try it. I wasn`t really motivated to try it, because I was tired and I wasn`t really motivated to try it, because it would mean to spent many sessions there changing my mood between: crying, happy, angry, friendly, I-will-kill-everyone, laying on the crashpad, laying between the crashpads, laying under the crashpads, bowling with my spotters, hungry, no skin on the fingertips.... and so on.
After a restday, we went there again. Not really motivated, to many delicious chocolate napolitanas for breakfast , falling of warming up on 5+ boulders and almost falling asleep if we took a rest.
|best breakfast, best lunch, best dinner --> Napolitana|
One go I hit the crimp perfect and without any doubts in my mind I did the swing out move and after bringing my feet back to the rock I had so much positiv energy that it was impossible for me to fall down again. Topping out with out expecting it so quick feels great. Climbed my first 8A boulder.
|"el varano" photo: Moritz Eisenlauer|
Moritz couldn`t climb it that day, but 2 days later he did it without any hestistation after warming up.
The fact that I wasn`t tired, happy and that I felt strong enough to go on to another project, that I worked out the last days, was for sure good.
Moritz wanted to climb "Zarzaparilla" 8B which is kind of an extension of "Zarzamora" 8A which I wanted to try again.
Guess what happend... One hour later, we put down the crashpads, brushed the holds and even before Moritz could put on his shoes I could stick the moves and top out my second 8A boulder... strange things happen.
|"Zarzamora sit" photo: Moritz Eisenlauer|
Furthermore I could climb "Zatochi" 8A (maybe more 7C+ for my size) after a restday. Strange things happen and finally all the work in the bouldergym in winter paid off!
Thanks to Johannes, Moritz, Julia and Matthias for the nice time bouldering in Albarracin.
|they taste really good!|
2 more climbing days and then it`s time to move to Siurana, but before I have to pick up Koen from the airport. Let`s see what happens.