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Freitag, 13. Juni 2014

May

What can I do? I climbed my wishes here for this year except some routes. Too weak, too far away, sometimes lack of motivation and/or no money for smaller trips... because I`m saving again for a new trip to Spain. First stop will be Rodellar again starting in july. Working and climbing, but mainly working to travel afterwards. No further plans until now.

I started to boulder again to gain some power for projects in Rodellar. Old ones and hopefully new ones. Luckily the amount of harder boulders around Aachen isn`t really, really low (there are not many, but a few) and the gym is open too... YEAH!

I could send some lines pretty quick this year which I couldn`t do last year, even if I just started to train somedays 2 weeks ago. I even got some videofootage. There are more, but I`m still not the owner of a good camcorder and a new laptop...

Spunk: 
a boulder by Markus Jung in the Avalonia cave opend this year in spring. It should be around 7C, but even if it was easier a great line straight trough the little roof.


Rainbow Warrior:
From Mustafa "Muzti" Eren opend in 2004 in Nideggen at "Zementwerk". You need a periode of dry weather to touch the holds. Original it is graded 8A, but with my armspan it is easier. For those who`ll try the line now... It is clearly a topout boulder!


Öcher Crack:
Daniel Hinkelmann, a friend and a hard-working student, found this nice crag close to the university in Aachen. We decided to give it a try with meters of tape and almost now useful experience and skills in painful fingerjamming. With success we could open the buildering line "Öcher Crack". Who will give it a try?



Tocix Desire:
Before I started bouldering I could climb my personal project in Bomal. I combines 9 routes right in the middle of  the wall. I don`t know if it`s a new combi, but no one could tell me anything about it.
It`s a long slowy rising traverse route from right to left and then up to pump your arms! 50 moves! Good to train your endurance in Bomal!

Start = "Toxic Climax"
bolt 1 = 1 bolt "Tantaloc"
bolt 2 = 2 bolt "Manhattan transfer"
bolt 3 = 2 bolt "Enchatillon"
bolt 4 = 2 bolt "Enfants de I'care"
bolt 5 = "Newton T'encule"
bolt 6 = 3 bolt "Bidis"
bolt 7 = 3 bolt "l'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'être"
bolt 8 = 4 bolt "Flagrant desir"
then to the top!
entering "bidis"
traversing
only rest

In my opinion it could be the hardest combi in Bomal. Maybe someone is interested to confirm or deny it :)


Now I`ll work a bit more, save money, train more and sort things out to make sure that I can stay a long time in Spain.
Who wants to join? Let me know! You`re welcome!