Sonntag, 27. Oktober 2013

Climbing is awesome

Good heading? I`m still living in my car. Somewhere close to Margalef or Siurana. First 2 weeks Margalef then 2 weeks Siurana. Both different, but good. Both not really my favorite style of climbing, but I think it is good for me to start some more fingery climbing, some more technical climbing after Rodellar and DWS on Mallorca. First days in both areas showed me that I lost a lot power and learnd how not to use my feet... no worries! I knew it before ;)


Two finger pockets, monos, pebbels, painful, heat!
I came to this crag knowing nothing about it, luckily Micha and Nina have been there too! I enjoyed it a lot climbing with them. Thanks for the meals, coffies, evenings in your campervan and of course for showing me the area and making me feel welcome! They`re on the road for a longer time. Check Michas homepage for more informations about their trip around spain.
I had also really good times with Tommy and Rachel who are on a trip in different countries for a longer time and from now on they stay in Margalef and Siurana or somewhere where you can find a bakery with sweet chocolate pastry. Definitely a good choice!

Almost everyday climbing is nice, but makes you really tired, but somehow it is not possible to hang around on the parking just watching the rock and the active climbers. In a way everyone is motivated to climb till the evening, till the sun is gone. With that motivation it is sure that everyone is somehow able to push their limitis a bit more further and climb a bit more harder. As a result of this and of course of many days climbing more this year a lot climbers achieve good efforts.
Nina climbed her first 7c.
Rachel climbed her first 7c.
Tommy climbed his first 7c, later his second, third and fourth.
Micha climbed is 300th route graded 8a or higher!

And I could finally tick one more thing from my wishlist.
1. Onsight 7c -->7c and 7c+ CHECK! (Rodellar)
2. Climb "Loskot and two smoking barrels" --> CHECK! (Mallorca)
and finally after trying it this year more then just one time, but always with a lack of motivation
3. Climb my first 8b (Margalef)

Big relief for me. I almost though it is impossible for me to achieve this on this trip. The step from 8a+ to 8b felt hard for me. In Margalef I found a line, which is not really the typical Margalef climbing with pockets and slightly overhanging. The route is called "402" at Tenebres, a 10 meter horizontal roof and after that a boulder over a bulge at the end. First 10 meters should be around 7c+ or 8a and after that a really nice and hard boulder :)
bad picture: the easy start

On the second or third day I found the route, worked it, watched how 2 climbers climbed the route pretty quick, got motivated to put some more work in a route. The next days I came back to work the roof to be sure that I`m not pumped for the boulder at the end. After some attempts it was possible and I always made it to the lip where you can find a rest hanging in the arms for a short time to get some power back for the boulder. After working this one for a solution that suits me I could finally starting making real attempts.  But feeling tired from working the route, climbing here and there, hanging around at the crag and not always sleeping well made it not possible to climb it.
Maybe a restday? YES! The idea! I took even took 2 days off.
After that it still felt hard to manoeuver my 90kgs to the chain at the end of the route. --> CHECK!

Thanks to the climbers I climbed with in Margalef: Micha, Nina, Tommy, Rachel, Michelo and Marco.


On of the oldest crags in Spain for sure and on of the really famous. On my first day I understood why. The surrounding, the area and of course the rock seems to be really good. The old village on the top. I enjoyed drinking my coffie in the morning or a thee at the top and looking down on the crag and the small cars that wind up or down the only street that leads to the village.

Rachel on "Hostia"

Fact is:
- Katinka came here for a week and crushed many routes up to 7b+.
- We ate a lot!
- I was really lazy here with taking pictures.
- I tried to climb a bit more. But I was tired from Margalef and the weeks before.
- Siurana is the land of the "betastick".
- Brushing holds or cleaning the route after sending seems to be unpopular.
- Screaming  through the crag seems to be fashion.
- I don`t like crimps, but in Siurana I kind of like them.
- Koen will come to Siurana in mid-november, then I`ll take some more pictures plus write a bit more

Show me your fingers and I`ll tell you where you climbed.

Now I`ll drive to Albarracin for 2 1/2 weeks bouldering. Getting stronger and climb a bit more dynamic again, loose all my skin. They say Albarracin is like Fontainebleau, but you can climb some boulders without falling off at the tops ;)
VAMOS!For the worlds most exciting sport...

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