Montag, 30. September 2013

Leaving the island

let`s go there
It is already a month ago since I came to the island. Now it is time to leave again. My plan was actually: Driving to the ferry in the evening, find a good place to sleep in the car, wake up late, check in and being shipped over with the car in 7 1/2 hours. Time to write (to be honest, I prepared the most before and maybe I even don`t change anything now)... but I had some problems with finding a good parking, slept 3 hours, walked around and wrote this post in the morning.

The last 2 weeks were in contrast to the first 2 weeks not so wet. No more DWS. After Caine left I went to Daniel, a friend form Aachen, who lives together with a friend Philip close to Palma in a little village called Deia for one year and who works for the university of Palma. Not so wrong I guess (except the pay).
 In Deia the flora and fauna is way more green, different plants and trees, even the tourist are different in way that is hard to describe, so I won`t try it. (maybe they`ve got more money, because everywhere are fincas, more expensive restaurants and more expensive cars.)

So I lived there for a time. My mattress on the floor... new home... so easy... so good. 
Overday I went on some hiking trips with Jana, a friend of Daniel, close to Deia to see the island not only from a car or from a cliff down at the water. There are plenty of posibilities to hike on the island. Long hikes, flat hikes, straight hikes, up and down hikes... At night I sat on the couch watching movies with Philip. Thanks to both.... and thanks to Jana for not killing me with her driving skills ;)

sa calobra
Michael Douglas donkey

 When Daniel finished working we went bouldering till it was dark. Everyday a new area, that could be possible for long time, because there is a lot rock on the island. Many small areas, long hikes to get there..
Finding the boulders is even more hard, because you don`t have a map. The only guidebook we had sucks and we never met other climbers. What is kind of good. Thanks to Daniel and Philip
Next thing to do was picking up David from the airport to go climbing with him somewhere in the mountains for 10 days. I met David in Rodellar and he decided to come to Mallorca because the rock should be really good and he is anyway climbing the whole year, so it is good to go somewhere else. In my first 2 weeks here I went to some cracks and took a quick look. Really.... didn`t look that good. Old bolts, slippery holds, polished and not really nice.

But David had some local contacts. We went with them to areas that are not written down in the guidebooks. So much rock and the quality of the rock, surrounding and climbing was really good. So much routes that I decided just to try every route onsight and then walk to the next. On some days David did the same on another level and if not he climbed the routes pretty quick and it is really impressive how easy an 8b+ seems to be.
80 meter rope is to short

gorg blau

view for the belayer

 We felt really welcome. We could sleep in at Christians (really strong local climber here and some years ago in "el chorro") house, they cooked for us (I automaticaly like poeple who cook for me!), David and me could take showers and I slept in a bed again since 1 of July (strange feeling)
Thanks to Christian, Barbie, little Cris, Forti, Palanka and of course the other climbers who show us around, gave us informations and made us feel welcome!

STOP... coffee time!
I can`t write so much right now, because I just climb, eat and sleep. Not so much to tell. So here are some more pictures from the trip.
my house
my kitchen

with great power comes great responsibility
When I leave the ferry I might have a plan where I`ll drive to, but right now I don`t know it. Maybe Margalef (to lose some skin on two finger pockets), maybe Siurana ( to learn how to use my feet and crimp) or maybe Montserrat (for pebbels and muiltpitch) Let`s see where it`s nice and where it`s easy to stay. End of october I`ll stay in Oliana with David again. Can`t wait for it.

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