Finally the sun is back and as every climber I`m never happy with the
weather.
Heat beats up the friction. There`s only on way to avoid
this...
let`s hide in caves!!!
Last weekend I could climb my project in
Ettringen. It`s called "
Krieg ich gerne" and graded 8a+/8b (in my opinion really hard 8a+/8b) located in the caves. I worked it last year 1 day, but was way to weak to climb it.
This year I felt better, had some problems with the weather and some holds that are always wet but thanks to the heat the caves were almost completly dry and I could start some serious attempts.
I always fell at the buzzkill move at the lip due to some wet underclings. I always thought "If I stick it, it`s done."
But as always in climbing... it isn`t working like this.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2-EKGJZqi8ba8L0cBAOSGwSgXlRwpI6L_Znj0XLdFMMOaQ6Xe_KV7BBImPyVkz49czefJCjjsjH8s6H-s_rB1IgErfWXrPyUrKEJDnV6CXw4t4AArDlzaAxuOcTfol48WYTQwErpFbE/s1600/_NIK4951.jpg) |
buzzkill |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia_NaIn2CKHPl574AgP2YtQNCxVmFESE4XRh2Ng3jt2cNKF7oI9kHe-nP84qxd_5JIaRiDFI7kxCGE94ZTBN_WWKHeo7AXT4tgnAGp7Kj0aiCNY5OFyYS2ZBNIFMHGKS2x94ZytXJ0RMU/s1600/_NIK5043.jpg) |
stick it! |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIM4Yn7GVi4v9p3HCIgR8arn6DZsZWAO34Gsd5xDKIRpEObhwL-lMNfBag6bi0pJd_nQH-XVTmYNXk9eVpFgcGDEvNMP49Ibb3tM0AK-MO1iYjL-7V3PD1PpAMB2M7eY_wcLNhGMbBm0k/s1600/_NIK5058.jpg) |
the lip |
The bouldercrux at the lip is harder if you made it through the whole roof and the last holds are always wet so you need a little bit extra strenght in the last section.
After some frustraiting tries and a really painful knee from a kneebar in the roof and falling of at the lip 3 times because the holds were still wet, I could climb the route on the first day with dry holds at the lip.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijlBKsNLaeDEZ5UIo1NAvPAzvjvA5lg59Jv98m_YXEDYojYdXVhiBoVhWN9gHXX6DDMBDUrkMh4EIsH3DGKG2qkCFAQVU39aRSQrS1jY98qd85E5IZw-7pAxuHfnc2RAislHHEyO4_XzI/s1600/_NIK4967.jpg) |
green leaves... nice! |
Feels good and I`m looking forward to try the original line "
Krieg der Sterne" which is harder but in my opinion "the line" in this sector.
Thanks to:
Thomas Schermer for the pictures!
Different day! Different country! Different cave!
With
Koen I found another caveman and we made it over night to the
Kronthal. Honestly we couldn`t climb our projects, but we had a really good time. Drinking coffee, eating, climbing, falling, swearing, sweating, cooking, sleeping, laying around and doing nothing.
Hakuna matata!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6Jtskt5F4UW7guIwk5ukeHdKTrenYwgeZAe8lBNQyB1VIB1ExykaK7wfuZZWiaiB0S96v54lbDiDAzskBr51G4ZO8Hxyu8wQGLOgB0EgO5Fo4IhY_cYX891JWzOHNj9BdJepMcMEd5k/s1600/1511390_742077809149707_7821780064582348376_n.jpg) |
in green |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYOXqhY1HCJ1gyh9gAapnWhtHK26ez0w0kj45E1UFpvh3p1LMqbbMF5ZjeYCZ5OwWjLjVDyTWzWThXEB-vmKOwwaMld2lm7FBNXmIU2VYBKqMnrBlLPpsS6Mj6zENZNMO5WDmeSDMH0Xg/s1600/1613925_742078672482954_5815937069005422269_n.jpg) |
falling over and over again |
|
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL8ozYcOacmR0umverfuu0GYlbnSXEYQY1Hi9sBzJBVNfUS_kGnLarvLOnV2JwL5zhNrrx1gmAnYKu4C5SBSDKShaIvUMpv22hvnxulBfzCy_Yat5fwplV23MlK9PGtrlrLWn5_MBxKwQ/s1600/10247194_742077999149688_6612765545924440698_n.jpg) |
civilized caveman |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpPvPFmfCbEiOIIwFEFAHbZ1M2x58sY5SWOPlApT-PbDqbvhj3Sggzg7wpge5525CFnojO-bqn7zE4FieoKgcqKngyBEqVsTen3K7PKL3PN9W0YTJlT1VLAXgR4B6gYAsx2OUH-KGUuY4/s1600/1959450_742077885816366_6180183009093604360_n.jpg) |
uncivilized caveman | | |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCAPoC_qkb5aAUCdeQa5zBQs0e3-mcK3FxOrq4hEBWsW9fmNmW0OPEG1i1Pb0XsbHlHqbokmqKgeKWDXYpHTX1gLp9Ut6DyvWz7yTqcvMYR6BDyD8cTb3EZQLhXEiIg9kZ3oQCAy9sRBU/s1600/10006941_742077752483046_8911692723175178200_n.jpg) |
wake up |
|
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRTm64LlaJ-yKzjr-D1_-bwunS7Bs2rj-mFydmNVlZT_Gf_g6cErryNOkGMrOEROpJ1aFX6IZC6lly7s8OuPuyIOOTnHMAA4bkP1I20jrjcm00FM0zZmQ2Rdlxp1diZA4nkDCFoHWGoSA/s1600/1536546_742078149149673_5234003415846832677_n.jpg) |
the roof line |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiGrKA1uB4giguSYWCGKggt9e2o_ggYmYnB-EzZbSjLz-1ZIqZN1ZSezFRO01md9abNEMHRbs_YkM-HZgHT_Jw-IdTlZaj9p4kvogs1-qy_-gkOjXNy17-ZfwiQqb0pIpyrLlkIp7sMNo/s1600/10157300_742078472482974_2007192072547020745_n.jpg) |
just 1 more try.... please!!! |
I hope everybody had a nice easter climbing or bouldering trip to different areas. See you at the rock!
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