Finally the sun is back and as every climber I`m never happy with the
weather. Heat beats up the friction
. There`s only on way to avoid
this... let`s hide in caves!!!
Last weekend I could climb my project in Ettringen
. It`s called "Krieg ich gerne
" and graded 8a+/8b (in my opinion really hard 8a+/8b) located in the caves. I worked it last year 1 day, but was way to weak to climb it.
This year I felt better, had some problems with the weather and some holds that are always wet but thanks to the heat the caves were almost completly dry and I could start some serious attempts.
I always fell at the buzzkill move at the lip due to some wet underclings. I always thought "If I stick it, it`s done." But as always in climbing... it isn`t working like this.
The bouldercrux at the lip is harder if you made it through the whole roof and the last holds are always wet so you need a little bit extra strenght in the last section.
After some frustraiting tries and a really painful knee from a kneebar in the roof and falling of at the lip 3 times because the holds were still wet, I could climb the route on the first day with dry holds at the lip.
|green leaves... nice!|
Feels good and I`m looking forward to try the original line "Krieg der Sterne
" which is harder but in my opinion "the line" in this sector.
Thanks to: Thomas Schermer
for the pictures!
Different day! Different country! Different cave!
I found another caveman and we made it over night to the Kronthal
. Honestly we couldn`t climb our projects, but we had a really good time. Drinking coffee, eating, climbing, falling, swearing, sweating, cooking, sleeping, laying around and doing nothing. Hakuna matata!
|falling over and over again|
|the roof line|
I hope everybody had a nice easter climbing or bouldering trip to different areas.
|just 1 more try.... please!!!|
See you at the rock!